Overview
Montana is an adventurer's paradise, home to some of the most famous national parks in the United States. Hike, whitewater raft, rock climb, and horseback ride through miles of rugged Montana country. But bring the bear spray! There is a plethora of wildlife that calls Montana home. On our trip in June, we saw deer, bears, a mountain lion, and a moose.
Towns to Visit
Whether you want to visit a remote location in Glacier National Park, ski resort towns, or western ranching communities, Montana has a town for you. Between Stevensville, Bigfork, Whitefish, and Polebridge, all your travel needs will be exceeded.
When to Go
Despite Montana's clear beauty in every season, there are certainly more optimal times to visit. With harsh and often long winters, summer is a hiker's paradise in Glacier National Park. I'll tell you when to visit and where to go in this section.
Things to Do and See
Catering to the outdoorsmen of the world, there's no shortage of things to do in Montana. Apart from the outdoor actives, there are plenty of quaint towns to stop and shop, as well as hole-in-the-wall barbecue and burger joints.
Glacier National Park
Topping almost every list of best national parks to visit is Glacier. The Sun Road is one of the most scenic and iconic destinations in all of the United States. Visit Grinnell Glacier to see one of the most famous glaciers in the park.
Towns
to
Visit
Stevensville
There's a reason they call it Big Sky country. Stevensville is the ideal pitstop if you’re interested in ranching and find miles of horse fields attractive. We stayed in Stevensville for two nights, where our ranch house was nestled on 52 acres of land. The house included amenities like a whirlpool tub, hot tub, and massage chair. We also had the opportunity to explore the old horse barn on the property and roam through the wildflower fields.
The ranch has plenty of room for you to explore or watch the sun set behind the Bitterroot mountain range from the comfort of the living room. I recommend this quaint ranching town as a pitstop on the way to Glacier National Park.
If you have time, hike the Lake Como loop to see beautiful views of the lake, waterfalls, and rock structures. There are also several trail riding companies in the area if you want a true western experience.
Unfortunately, the ranch we stayed on is no longer a Vrbo but there are still plenty of rentals in the area. If you’d rather stay in hotels, you might have to drive to a more populous town.
Whitefish
Whitefish is a charming little town near the base of Glacier National Park. The downtown area looks like a mountain town out of a movie, lined with white-trimmed, well-kept shops and restaurants. Spend a few hours strolling the many markets and eating at whole-in-the-wall gems. If you’re a fan of BBQ, I suggest eating at Piggyback BBQ. The restaurant is quaint, like the town itself, offering a western atmosphere with laid-back vibes and great food. Make sure to order the BBQ nachos (they’re huge) and a side of potato salad.
Also be sure to shop the stores at the base of Big Mountain, which are detailed in the Things to Do tab. My favorite shop was the picturesque Boudoir Bar, pictured above, which sold beautiful desserts and boutique style souvenirs. These stores are also ideal for locals.
Whitefish Ski Resort is a must-do if you’re in town. The resort sits atop Big Mountain as a part of the Flathead National Forest. If you have children, or an adventurous streak, take a ride on the alpine slide. For $20, take two trips down the slide, which curves down the mountain to the bottom of the resort.
The free ski lift will take you to the top of the alpine slide. I had never ridden an alpine slide before, so it was an interesting new experience for me. I did wish it went a little faster, but those with more weight tend to make the cart gain much more speed. My Dad and brother pushed the one handle as far as it would go for maximum speed.
If you’re interested in the views, you can pay $24 for a gondola ride to the top of Big Mountain. You can hop off the Gondola and witness the panoramic views. Even in the summer, make sure you bring a jacket because it is chilly at the top.
There are also mountain biking trails at the resort. Not to mention, it is a full-fledged ski resort in the winter months. All rides and activities can be purchased in the activity center at the base of the resort.
Polebridge
What can I say about Polebridge? It isn’t quite a town, nor is it really a resort. A settlement might be the most accurate word, although settlements tend to have a much older connotation.
Polebridge is located within Glacier National Park, at the tip top of Montana. Our phones must have thought we were in Canada because my family all received “Welcome to Canada'' text messages. These were the only messages we received because the service near Polebridge, and through much of Glacier, was nonexistent.
Make sure to use a park map or preload directions onto your phone if you plan on venturing to Polebridge.
The most notable part of Polebridge is the Mercantile, which sells its renowned Bear Claws. They are essentially huge, doughy, pastries, filled with wildberry preserves and jam. I also enjoyed the oatmeal peanut butter M&M cookies.
The Mercantile also sells some groceries and souvenirs if that piques your interest.
Polebridge has cabins available for rent if you’re looking for a remote stay. Note that the bathrooms on site are not private, and the public bathroom is also where the guests shower and use the restroom.
There is also a food truck on-site if you find yourself hungry after the long drive through Glacier National park. My family didn’t grab a meal while we were there, so I can’t attest to the food, but if it’s anything like the baked goods, then I’d recommend trying the food truck.
Polebridge is a spot worth visiting if you’re interested in driving far into Glacier and reaching a remote destination. The drive to Polebridge is certainly scenic. They also sell their legendary Bear Claws, so make sure to buy one if you journey to Polebridge.
When
to
Go
Our Basecamp Bigfork Vrbo
Keep in mind, in early summer, many trails are still closed in Glacier National Park. I love to visit the parks in early summer when visitation is not at its peak and the temperatures are cooler. Still, you do miss out on some beautiful trails if you travel before peak season.
August is generally considered the best time to visit Glacier because all of the trails and roads should be open, no longer blocked by snow. Huckleberries are also in season, a fruit that is a Montana staple. Huckleberries also attract bears, so keep bear spray on hand if you hike any time in Glacier, but especially in late summer.
When my family visited in June, going to the Sun-Road was still closed. Typically, the road is open by mid June, but Montana had had a particularly snowy winter that prevented the road from opening. This meant we had to drive nearly three hours from the West side of the park to the East. Although it added time to our trip, the drive around Glacier was beautiful and well worth the journey.
It seems like most of the rentals and Vrbos are near the Western portion of the park. There is much more civilization in this area, meaning stores and restaurants are much more plentiful. My family stayed in Bigfork, which was around fifteen minutes from the Western entrance.
We stayed at BaseCamp Bigfork, a Vrbo suitable for families, which I would recommend to anyone. The owners live just down the road and are willing to help at a moment's notice, and come to take your trash daily. This area is also a great viewing spot for various wildlife. We saw deer nightly, my parents saw a black bear, and our neighbors saw a cougar during our stay. Wolves also frequent the area.
View from our front yard in Bigfork.
I loved sitting outside at the campfire watching for wildlife each night. There are also trails off the property that are available to guests. Carry bear spray and make noise anytime you use these trails.
Basecamp Bigfork also has a yurt onsite, which was near our rental. This is an ideal spot for couples, and there were actually honeymooners there during our stay. The yurt and rental are close enough that you can meet your neighbors if you wish, however they are secluded enough that you have plenty of your own space.
Basecamp also offers rentals including kayaks and bikes if you have any interest.
Small buck in our front yard.
THings to
DO And
See
Montana is known for its outdoor activities and national parks. It's obvious that you should spend some time in nature and explore Glacier while you're here, but there are plenty of other activities that you can do to explore the vast state of Montana.
1. Columbia Falls Community Market
If you’re visiting in the months of May through September, make time to stop at the Columbia Falls Community Market. Taking place every Thursday night, food trucks and vendors line the streets to accommodate the many guests. Locals and tourists alike peruse the local honey and produce booths, and grab food from one of the many food trucks.
I tried Brazilian barbecue for the first time, pictured above, and it did not disappoint. The sides were eclectic (pineapple paired with rice and beans, a piece of garlic bread atop a smoked bed of meat covered in aioli). While I never would have paired these foods together on their own, my plate truly was delicious. It was one of the best meals I had in Montana.
Although I would say a trip to the community market is well worth your time, especially if you want to immerse yourself with locals and try local products, it is not necessarily a relaxed affair. The market is busy. The food truck lines can be long (though they moved quickly in my experience), and there is not ample seating.
For the best experience, I recommend going towards 5:00PM when the market opens.
Pro Tip: Bring a quilt or blanket and eat your food picnic style instead of relying upon a table to become available.
2. Shop in Whitefish
Whitefish is swankier than other parts of town. It caters towards a different kind of tourist than the $10 souvenir shops do. Neither choice is right or wrong, it just depends upon your preference.
I personally really enjoyed venturing into the town of Whitefish and browsing the outdoor shops at the base of the mountain. The souvenirs are well-made and there are plenty of outdoor stores if you want to update your hiking attire.
There also were picturesque boutiques and instagram worthy stores. If you want a cute picture, go inside Boudoir Bar. The shop sells teas, gelato, and baked goods. It is outfitted in pastel colored wallpaper maps and bright pink signs and script. I enjoyed the raspberry gelato, pictured above. The gelato tasted just as good as the store looked.
3. Whitewater Raft
While there are plenty of lakes and rivers in my home state of Kentucky, there is very little whitewater.
Until I took a whitewater rafting trip myself, I don’t think I realized how strong and quickly the whitewater moves, as well as how many currents there are. Honestly, I didn’t realize just how adrenaline inducing whitewater rafting can be either. It was loads of fun.
My family rafted with Glacier Guides and Montana Raft for a half day excursion. This ran us $79 per adult. Children 5-12 years old cost $59. Unless your child is a thrill seeker, I’d be cautious about bringing kids below the age of eight.
Upon arrival at Glacier Guides in West Glacier, we were quickly checked in and fitted for gear. I zipped up a very thick and tight wetsuit, though you’ll be grateful for it when the icy water rushes into your raft. The guides helped us find suitable paddles and helmets, and then we boarded the bus to our entrance point. Note: Shoes are also included in the rentals, however I wore my own water shoes.
The bus ride was not cramped, holding less than twenty people in total and quickly transported us to the Flathead river. While on the way to the river, the guides give a safety briefing and teach passengers how to paddle based on their commands. It can be confusing at first, but it is easy to get the hang of things once in the water.
We then disembarked and joined one other small group on our raft before beginning the ride. We traveled down the river, paddling as directed, through Glacier National Park. We watched for wildlife, as bears sometimes can be seen on tours, as we floated in calm parts of the river. When we hit the whitewater induced whirlpools, we stuck our toes deep in the raft to hang on as water soaked us from the waves. If you weren’t awake before the trip, I promise the chilly water will do the trick.
Note that life jackets and helmets are required on the tour (they are provided.) While this might not be your personal preference, I am sure anyone would be thankful for the gear if they fell into the fast-flowing water. This does happen from time to time.
There is also time to swim, if you’re interested, in certain sections of the Flathead river. My sister decided to take a plunge into the frigid water. I stayed seated firmly on the raft. Even in June, this water is nowhere close to warm.
This company made my family’s first time whitewater rafting enjoyable, safe, and easy. I’d highly recommend this top-rated company for rafting in West Glacier.
4. Horseback Ride
If you’re not a hiker, horseback riding is another way to see the beauty of Montana. Two hour, half-day, full day, and backpacking trips are available based on your skill level and interests. We rode with Swan Mountain Outfitters, a company that specializes in trail rides and hunting trips. My sister and I took the two hour ride, which was more about riding horses than getting the best views, but that suited us fine. Our guides paired us with a horse and took us through the Flathead National forest from their Lion Creek Road base. There were only two other riders in our group, which made for a serene trip. This two hour ride is also suitable for children.
If you want to actually travel into the mountainside on horseback, opt for the day trip or the backpacking trip. These options aren’t for the faint of heart, as horses tend to hang to the edge of the trails, precariously close to tumbling off. Any time I’m on these kinds of trips, I try to remind myself that the horses don’t want to go off the edge anymore than I do, but it’s not exactly a relaxing trip. Still, you can see some views that are inaccessible to hikers while on these day trips and backpacking excursions.
Our June ride cost us $105 per person.
Glacier National Park
Grinnell Glacier Trail
Glacier is a wildy expansive park with some of the most beautiful and breathtaking views in the U.S. If you’re an avid hiker or outdoorsmen, this park is your kind of paradise.
Driving the sun road through the park is the best way to travel from one side of the park to the other, and is easily one of the most scenic roads in the entire U.S. Typically, this road is open by mid-June, however, due to a heavy winter the road was still closed when my family traveled to Montana. While this was inconvenient and certainly required a high level of flexibility, this by no means ruined our trip.
Instead of driving the Sun road to East Glacier, we had to skirt around the entire park, which was about a three hour trip from our Vrbo in Bigfork. Again, this certainly required some patience, but accessing the trails on East Glacier was well worth it. We also had the opportunity to see more of Montana. Keep in mind that service will be sparse, so I recommend preloading directions and downloading the Alltrails app.
To guarantee you have access to the entire Sun Road, I would say July-September would be your safest months to travel.
Lake McDonald
West Glacier
If you’ve seen pictures of those famous multi-colored rocks beneath crystalline water, you’ve probably seen Lake McDonald. One of the most famous lakes in the world, Lake McDonald is over ten miles long and is known for its glass-like reflection.
In addition to hiking or camping near the lake, you can kayak or reserve a boat ride across the water. Located in Flathead County, Lake McDonald is one of the most beautiful sites in West Glacier. It is certainly more crowded than some areas in East Glacier, but I would still recommend visiting Lake McDonald in some capacity while at Glacier National Park.
Grinnell Glacier Trail
East Glacier
Grinnell Glacier trail is the most beautiful hike I have ever completed. Views from beginning to end, this moderately difficult hike is worth the time and effort it takes to get to the top. This is an 11.2 mile out-and-back trail that tackles a 2,000 foot elevation gain for views of the lake below. My Dad, brother, and I hiked this trail in a few hours (the last mile or so was closed due to snow in mid-June). Bring snacks and plenty of water and take your time to enjoy this trail. There are plenty of rock outcroppings and areas to sit and take a break, enjoying the view. You’re likely to see mountain goats, moose, and grizzly bears on this hike. In August, when the huckleberries are ripe, this trail may be closed due to increased bear activity.
Grinnell Lake Trail
East Glacier
If you’re looking for a less challenging trail with similar views, hike the Grinnell Lake Trail. My Mom and sister hiked this 7.1 mile loop trail to the bottom of Josephine Lake. Take a dip in if you dare; even in June, this water is icy. Both Grinnell Glacier Trail and Grinnell Lake are accessible at the same trailhead, so you can begin this hike at the same point before deciding to fork off onto Grinnell Glacier trail or head to Josephine Lake. Typically, you would drive across the entire park on the Sun Road to access this hike, but my family had to drive the long way around the park to the East Glacier entrance point because the Sun Road was still closed.
The best time to access this trail is from August-October, when the snow has melted away.